Dermatologists weigh in on all the most effective gels, serums, and patches, no matter if you’re dealing with below-the-skin cysts, visible whiteheads, or stubborn hormonal acne.
All acne presents itself in different ways, which makes perfect sense when you consider there are a combination of factors — hygiene, hormones, genetics, etc. — that play a part in your breakouts if you have acne-prone skin. But knowledge is power, and having a sense of each acne type’s modus operandi can help you map out the best defense (and offense) plan, setting you way ahead of the clear-skin curve.
Once you figure out what you’re working with (a pustule vs. a cyst, for example — more on that below), you’ll find that there are a variety of treatment options at your disposal. From there, you’ll want to determine what kinds of ingredients and acne products will work most efficiently to clear up breakouts and prevent new zits from popping up.
Seeing a dermatologist is the best way to identify the best acne treatments for your skin (and get any necessary prescriptions in the process). Until then, we’ve done some of the legwork for you by talking to board-certified dermatologists to curate the ultimate guide to taking down every type of acne out there — from subcutaneous “blind pimples” and cystic acne to overnight whiteheads that seem to always conveniently pop up before some kind of major event. You’ll also find out how to deal with that constellation of blackheads on your nose to help you avoid too many extractions at your next facial.
An important thing to keep in mind is that not all purported acne-fighting formulas effectively fight all types of acne, and some skin types will require different variations on their skincare routine to effectively target acne breakouts. Cystic acne may require a multi-pronged approach of over-the-counter retinoids (say, isotretinoin, for example) and at-home products like the ones mentioned here. Meanwhile, routine whiteheads along your T-zone or hormonal acne may just require a simple cocktail of tea tree, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), and a beta hydroxy acid (BHA, like salicylic acid) — which can all be easily obtained at your nearest drugstore. Sensitive skin types might want to use ingredients like AHAs intermittently to avoid any further irritation to the skin.
Without further ado, here’s the scoop straight from dermatologists on some of the best acne treatments for every type of zit, cyst, and pustule threatening to implode on your skin.
Whiteheads: Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel
What you’re seeing: A typical zit with a white dot in the center.
What’s going on: Blame it on your clogged pores. “Skin cells stick together inside your pores, blocking the opening,” explains board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. The white you see at the top — hence the name “whitehead” — is the blocked pore. Oil trapped beneath it mingles with grime and bacteria, causing inflammation and that red, swollen bump that ultimately becomes a pimple.
How to handle it: Consider salicylic acid your secret weapon for oily skin. “This BHA helps remove excess oil and exfoliate dead skin cells from the skin’s surface to keep pores clear,” says Dr. Zeichner. Try Clinique’s Acne Solution Clearing Gel, a two-time Allure Best of Beauty Award winner that packs both salicylic acid and sea whip extract — an ingredient with skin-soothing properties — to help counteract the dryness sometimes caused by salicylic acid.
The formula pulls double-duty, too. It works as a spot treatment for mild to moderate acne and as a nightly allover treatment for pimple prevention. Since it dries clear, you can wear it to fight zits whenever, wherever.
Whiteheads: Mario Badescu Drying Lotion
How to handle it: The fast-acting, pink-hued Mario Badescu Drying Lotion is a Readers’ Choice Award winner for a reason. The formula is continuously touted for annihilating whiteheads and uses a medley of salicylic acid and sulfur to get the job done. Toronto-based board-certified dermatologist Geeta Yadav, MD, says that the formula is effective in the fight against these non-inflammatory types of lesions, drying out pimples and clearing out pores quickly.
To use the spot treatment, dip a clean cotton swab into the pink sediment sitting at the bottom of the bottle and dab it onto cleansed skin. Let it dry overnight as you catch some zzz’s, et voilà: shrunken whiteheads come morning. (Pro tip: Whatever you do, avoid shaking the bottle — this dilutes the treatment and can render the active ingredients less effective.)
Pustules: Kate Somerville Anti Bac Acne Clearing Solution
What You’re Seeing: Red, inflammed, and angry-looking pimples filled with white or yellow liquid.
What’s Going On: These may vaguely resemble whiteheads, but they’re actually in the inflammatory acne family, says Dr. Zeichner. Pustules, which are filled with — you guessed it — pus, are the result of inflammation caused by bacteria.
How to Handle It: Think of these as bigger, pissed-off whiteheads. Your best bet, Dr. Zeichner explains, is to stock up on benzoyl peroxide, which kills the bacteria. A spot treatment like Kate Somerville Anti Bac Acne Clearing Lotion should do the trick. Also, try not to pop them — as tempting as that may be. Since they’re inflamed, they’re more likely to scar if you go the DIY route.
Pustules: CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser
Foaming cleansers can leave your skin feeling stripped, but CeraVe’s Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser uses nourishing ceramides and moisturizing hyaluronic acid to keep skin feeling smooth and comfortable (even for dry skin types who experience the odd pimple). As for those pesky pustules? 4 percent benzoyl peroxide targets the bacteria that’s causing this type of inflammatory acne, says Morgan Covington, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas. If you have especially sensitive skin, stick to one application daily and build your way up to two (day and night) as needed to send pimples packing.
Hormonal Acne: Neutrogena Oil-Free Pink Grapefruit Acne Facial Cleanser
What’s going on: Do you tend to get these at the same time every month — say, just before you get your period? That might be because these are the work of fluctuating hormones, says Dr. Zeichner. Hormones can put oil production into overdrive, and having an excess of oil means that it’s more likely to settle in your hair follicles, clog your pores, and cause zits.
How to handle it: Pair two of the best-known acne-fighting ingredients, salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide, in the week leading up to your period. The combo can help prevent hormonal acne from happening in the first place. Zeichner suggests using a salicylic acid-infused wash like the classic Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash Pink Grapefruit Facial Cleanser, which contains 2 percent of the acid, to deeply penetrate and unclog pores. It also includes a healthy dose of vitamin C to brighten up hyperpigmentation.
Hormonal Acne: Glossier Zit Stick
Follow up your exfoliating face wash with a benzoyl peroxide spot treatment such as Glossier Zit Stick. If you’re still seeing zits, “visit your dermatologist to discuss prescription options, like birth control pills, oral spironolactone (which blocks oil), or topical Aczone 7.5 percent gel,” says Dr. Zeichner. “It’s shown to be particularly effective in adult women without causing irritation.” Oral contraceptives level out those hormone fluctuations, balancing your oil production and keeping skin clear.
Hormonal Acne: SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense
The only thing better than a product that targets hormonal acne is one that fends off signs of aging, too. Cue this solution from SkinCeuticals, which, according to Dr. Yadav, combines the pore-clearing properties of salicylic acid with skin-brightening dioic acid to control excess sebum that can clog pores. It also contains AHAs (glycolic and citric acids) to help with cell turnover and dissolving dead skin cells.
Dr. Yadav notes that although hormonal acne can occur at any age, it becomes more prevalent in your 30s and onward — around the time you may begin to notice fine lines popping up — making the SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense a great option for someone looking to maintain youthful-looking skin and curb hormonal flare-ups.
Blackheads: Bioré Deep Cleansing Pore Strips
What You’re Seeing: Dark, tiny dots plugging your pores.
What’s Going On: You might be all too familiar with these, which tend to make their debut when you’re in high school. “Blackheads, like whiteheads, are blocked pores,” says Dr. Zeichner. What gives them their namesake color, though, is the oil. It’s already dark, but blackheads also have a larger opening at the surface than whiteheads do, meaning air can enter and oxidize that oil sitting inside the pore, turning it even darker.
How to Handle It: Exfoliation is a step you simply cannot skip if you’re experiencing blackheads. Dr. Zeichner recommends pairing a salicylic acid-packed wash with pore strips. Bioré Deep Cleansing Pore Strips are a tried-and-true solution.
Blackheads: GlamGlow Supermud Clearing Treatment
Prone to blackheads? Dr. Yadav says a monthly facial can help keep your pores in check. To maintain your aesthetician’s hard work — and combat buildup in between appointments — try incorporating a deep-cleansing face mask into your weekly skin-care regimen. GlamGlow’s Supermud Charcoal Instant Treatment Mask “contains charcoal to help soak up excess oil, as well as a cocktail of six acids (including salicylic, glycolic, and lactic) to keep pores clear,” says Dr. Yadav. And if you experience any tingling side effects, don’t be alarmed — that’s the mask letting you know it’s hard at work.
Papules: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Acne Treatment with Benzoyl Peroxide
What you’re seeing: Patches of small, red zits that don’t come to a head.
What’s going on: Meet papules. No, they’re not things you’d find growing on the grounds of Hogwarts (though they sound like it). These are a type of inflammatory acne, and they’re the work of bacteria. “Growth of the bacteria p. acnes on the skin promotes inflammation, causing acne bumps to become red and tender,” says Dr. Zeichner.
How to handle it: Your best bet is benzoyl peroxide. “Benzoyl peroxide can kill acne-causing bacteria and reduce inflammation,” Dr. Zeichner explains. Try a cream like the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Dual-Action Acne Treatment, which also exfoliates with lipo-hydroxy acid. Be aware, however, that it can seriously dry out the skin, so make sure to follow it up with hydrating skin-care products, like moisturizers and serums.
Papules: AcneFree Terminator 10 Acne Spot Treatment
Breakout-targeted skin-care brand AcneFree understood the assignment: Treat pimples without drying out skin. Its Terminator 10 Acne Spot Treatment combines powerful “10% micro-benzoyl peroxide with calming, anti-inflammatory ingredients like chamomile, ginger, and sea whip,” says New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD. Apply a small amount in an even layer one to three times a day to kill acne-causing bacteria and minimize redness.
Cystic Acne: Epiduo Forte Gel
What you’re seeing: Huge, angry pimples — and there are usually multiple.
What’s going on: If it’s big, red, and painful, you’re probably experiencing cystic acne, one of the more severe types. “Cystic pimples are caused by genetics and hormonal stimulation of oil glands,” says Dr. Zeichner. Not only are they large, but they’re also notoriously tough to treat, and can leave serious acne scars in their wake. They often recur in the same place because even if you manage to get rid of one, it can keep filling up with oil again and again, like an immortal pimple.
How to Handle It: If you’ve tried the usual acne-fighting ingredients, like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide (which, we should warn you, rarely work for this kind of acne), you should consider paying your dermatologist a visit. “You may need a cortisone injection or an oral medication, like an antibiotic, in addition to topical formulas,” says Dr. Zeichner. He’s also a fan of a prescription topical medication called Epiduo Forte Gel, since he says it’s been shown to be effective at controlling severe acne without the help of oral treatments.
Cystic Acne: Vichy Normaderm S.O.S Acne Rescue Spot Corrector
While it’s rare that cystic acne will completely disappear thanks to an at-home formula, Dr. Covington says these deep-seated inflammatory lesions respond well to sulfur if you’re not quite ready for a prescription treatment. Vichy’s Normaderm S.O.S Acne Rescue Spot Corrector makes good use of the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial ingredient, and also has the added benefits of glycolic acid and niacinamide “to smooth skin and minimize irritation,” says Dr. Covington. Yes, please.
Blind Pimples: Cortizone-10 Creme with Aloe
What you’re seeing: Just a subtle — but incredibly painful — bump under your skin.
What’s going on: You don’t actually see these so much as feel them — which is why they’re called blind pimples. “A blind pimple is like a balloon under the skin with no connection to the skin’s surface, so there’s nowhere for it to go,” explains Dr. Zeichner. The pressure just builds beneath the skin, which is what makes it sensitive to the touch.
How to handle it: Speaking of touching, don’t! Picking it, squeezing it, or poking at it will only worsen the situation. These may disappear on their own after a few days. Otherwise, Dr. Zeichner suggests visiting your dermatologist for a shot of cortisone, which will reduce inflammation and shrink it in just 24 to 48 hours. But if a last-minute appointment isn’t in the cards, go ahead and play mad scientist. First, ice the area, and then apply salicylic acid gel, benzoyl peroxide gel, and 1 percent hydrocortisone cream (like the one pictured above). The combo will calm skin, kill bacteria, and draw out excess oil from the pimple — all things necessary to take this down, explains Dr. Zeichner.
Blind Pimples: ZitSticka Killa Microdart Patch
Blind pimples are incredibly challenging as they’re lodged “much deeper in the skin and extend to the subcutaneous layer,” says Dr. Covington, referring to the deepest layer of the skin. If you’re in a pinch, Dr. Covington recommends using ZitSticka’s Killa Microdart Patch. Each breakout-fighting sticker contains 24 self-dissolving microdarts, salicylic acid to decongest the pore, and a blend of amino acids to help improve the skin’s appearance. The patch melts within two hours, revealing clearer skin, less texture, and minimized redness.