Whether you’re a fan of exfoliation or not, there’s no denying that it brings a noticeable change to your skin tone. Luckily, we no longer need to rely on harsh physical scrubs to remove unwanted debris from the skin’s surface.
Chemical peels are nothing new, but their popularity has skyrocketed in recent years. Many of us are now using exfoliating toners as a staple part of our daily skincare routine.
With all of these acids, the question we’re left with is whether some should be avoided, while others are more effective when combined. The two main ingredients we want to focus on are vitamin C and beta hydroxy acids, also known as BHAs.
If you want to learn more about how these powerful substances work on your skin, keep reading. We will cover what benefits they provide, and whether you can safely combine BHA and vitamin C without destroying your skin barrier.
What are the benefits of BHA?
BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid. It is a group of chemical exfoliants that work deeper into the skin than their cousins, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
They are oil-soluble and therefore very effective in fighting problem and acne-prone skin. They do this by removing excess sebum from the skin and clearing the pores of bacteria, debris, and other impurities.
If left untreated, these conditions tend to worsen and develop into skin blemishes such as blackheads, skin congestion, and a dull complexion. Due to their high potency, you need to be careful when mixing them with other acids.
Doing it wrong increases the risk of irritation, where the skin becomes itchy, blotchy, red, and sometimes develops a rash. The most commonly used BHA in a range of skin care products is salicylic acid.
Derived from willow bark, the acid’s small molecular size means it can penetrate into the lower layers of the skin. This prevents further breakouts and reduces inflammation.
It helps remove bacteria, dirt, and debris that can build up in pores and cause whiteheads, blackheads, and other blemishes. It also helps reduce and regulate sebum production in the skin, which is especially useful for people with oily and acne-prone skin.
Furthermore, it removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, which can cause breakouts and dull the complexion. It contains anti-inflammatory properties, which means it can help counteract any redness or inflammation on your face.
What are the benefits of vitamin C?
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant and effective skin care ingredient. It can help solve a variety of complexion problems.
It supports the lipid barrier, ensuring it is strong enough to protect the skin from free radicals. These include pollution, UV rays, central heating, and other sources of oxidative stress.
It helps brighten skin tone and minimize the appearance of hyperpigmentation. This is accomplished by inhibiting the enzyme that produces melanin, which causes skin pigmentation.
It also contains anti-inflammatory properties, which means vitamin C can fight skin redness. Finally, it increases collagen production, making skin firmer, maintaining elasticity, and imparting a youthful bounce.
Can BHA and Vitamin C be used together?
Yes, you can, but only in a way that prevents severe skin irritation. Here are some examples of how best to use them together safely.
Option one: Use them at different times of the day.
Since the pH of these two acids is highly acidic, layering them directly on top of each other can cause a pH imbalance in the skin. This will almost certainly cause irritation and redness.
To avoid this, it’s best to leave enough time between applications. Many people find that the radiant glow and antioxidant protection of vitamin C provide the best results when used in their morning routine.
Then, you can apply the BHA at night. This allows it to work on the skin without being disrupted by the effects of daytime free radicals.
Option two: Use them on different nights.
If you find that the first option causes skin irritation, you may choose to take vitamin C and BHA on completely separate nights. This ensures each ingredient works without having to battle everyday skin aggressors.
While vitamin C is generally best used during the day, you’ll find that its antioxidant properties make it equally effective at night. It repairs existing damage and prevents further damage to the skin while you sleep.
Option three: Layering for advanced skin.
There is another option that is best for those who have already built a strong tolerance to both ingredients. You can actually apply vitamin C on top of BHA.
All you need to do is make sure to leave about 20 minutes between applications. This allows your skin’s pH to calm down and prepare for the next steps in your daily routine.
Which one comes first, vitamin C or BHA?
If your skin can tolerate the use of both ingredients in the same routine, it’s best to start with your BHA product. The reason is that it is an oil-soluble product, which means it penetrates deeper into the skin.
It also removes the stubborn buildup of dead skin cells and dirt. This strips away any barriers in the skin so that vitamin C and other active ingredients are absorbed quickly, and results appear much faster.
If you have any questions about using any of these ingredients, you should consult a doctor or trained professional. We always recommend doing a 24-hour patch test to see if the actives are right for your specific skin needs.