Whether you’re a fan of exfoliation or not, there’s no denying that you’ll notice a noticeable change in your skin tone. Luckily, we no longer need to rely on physical exfoliants to remove unwanted debris from the skin’s surface. Chemical peels are nothing new, but their popularity has skyrocketed in recent years, with many of us using exfoliating toners as part of our skincare routine.
With all of these acids, the question we’re left with is: Are some should be avoided, while others are more effective when combined? The two main ingredients we want to focus on are vitamin C and beta hydroxy acids, also known as BHAs. So if you want to learn more about how these powerful substances work on your skin, what benefits they provide, and whether you can combine BHA and vitamin C, stay tuned.
What are the benefits of BHA?
BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid and is a group of chemical exfoliants that work deeper into the skin than their cousins, the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). They are oil-soluble and therefore very effective in fighting problem and acne-prone skin.
They do this by removing excess sebum from the skin and clearing the pores of bacteria, debris, and other impurities. Over time, these conditions tend to worsen and develop into skin blemishes such as blackheads, skin congestion, and dull complexion. Due to their high potency, you’d better avoid mixing them with other acids. This is because there is an increased risk of irritation, where the skin becomes itchy, blotchy, red and sometimes develops a rash.
The most commonly used BHA in a range of skin care products is salicylic acid. Derived from willow bark, the acid’s small molecular size means it can penetrate into the lower layers of the skin, preventing further breakouts and reducing inflammation. The main benefits of salicylic acid are as follows.
- Helps remove bacteria, dirt and debris that can build up in pores and cause whiteheads, blackheads and other blemishes.
- Helps reduce and regulate sebum production in the skin. This is especially useful for people with oily and acne-prone skin.
- Removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, which can cause breakouts and dull the complexion.
- Contains anti-inflammatory properties, which means it can help counteract any redness or inflammation on your skin.
- If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and other BHAs, check out our dedicated blog post.
What are the benefits of vitamin C?
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant and effective skin care ingredient that can help solve a variety of problems.
- Supports the lipid barrier, ensuring it is strong enough to protect the skin from free radicals such as pollution, UV rays, central heating and other oxidative stress.
- Helps brighten skin tone and minimize the appearance of hyperpigmentation. This is accomplished by inhibiting the enzyme that produces melanin, which causes skin pigmentation.
- Contains anti-inflammatory properties, which means vitamin C can fight skin redness.
- Increases collagen production, making skin firmer, maintaining elasticity and imparting youthful elasticity.
- Do you want to know more about vitamin C? Check out our dedicated blog post on this here at The Beauty Insiders.
Now that we’ve briefly summarized the benefits of BHA and Vitamin C, let’s take a closer look and learn how to use them together effectively.
Can BHA and Vitamin C be used together?
Yes, you can, but only in a way that prevents skin irritation. Here are some examples of how best to use them together.
Option one – use them at different times of the day
Since the pH of these two acids is acidic, adding them on top of each other can cause a pH imbalance in the skin, which can cause irritation. To avoid this, it’s best to leave enough time between applications. Many people find that the radiant glow and antioxidant protection of vitamin C provide the best results when used in their morning routine. Then apply the BHA at night so it can work on the skin without being disrupted by the effects of free radicals.
Option two – use them on different nights
If you find that the first option causes skin irritation, you may choose to take vitamin C and BHA separately at night. This ensures each ingredient works without having to battle everyday skin aggressors. While vitamin C is generally best used during the day, you’ll find that its antioxidant properties make it equally effective at night, as it repairs existing damage and prevents further damage to the skin.
There are two popular options here, however, there is another option that is best for those who have a tolerance to both ingredients. You can apply vitamin C on BHA. All you need to do is make sure to leave about 20 minutes between applications to allow your skin to calm down and prepare for the next steps in your daily routine.
Which one comes first, vitamin C or BHA?
If your skin can tolerate the use of both ingredients in the same routine, it’s best to start with a BHA product. The reason is that it is an oil-soluble product, which means it can penetrate deeper into the skin. It also removes buildup of dead skin cells and dirt, stripping away any barriers in the skin so that vitamin C and other active ingredients are absorbed quickly and results appear faster.
If you have any questions about using any of these ingredients, you should consult a doctor or trained professional. I also recommend doing a 24 hour patch test to see if the actives are right for you and your skin needs.